Menu designers use the lessons of behavioural economics to nudge us into ordering what the chef wants us to. William Poundstone has studied more than 100 menus – from cartes du jour at Michelin-starred restaurants to the vast, illuminated sign menus of fast-food joints – to unveil the "science" behind their design. Here he deconstructs the choices at WIRED's favourite local, The Wolseley in Mayfair.
The menu's costliest choice is a fillet, at £28.75, and its prominent placement ensures that it will be one of the first prices diners read. People have an inexact sense of value but are acutely sensitive to contrasts. The £28.75 price makes the adjacent Rib Eye (£21.75) and Filet de Boeuf au Poivre (£24.50) seem more reasonably priced than they would otherwise. Diners are also subject to "extremeness aversion". They shy away from the most expensive item – or the least expensive, for that matter. The Rib Eye and Filet de Boeuf are probably popular choices just because they're not the most expensive. Likewise, the second-most expensive bottle on a wine list tends to be a top seller.
The Kaiserschmarren is "for two". Such items cater to the psychology of couples having romantic dinners. The 25-minute preparation time and the sharing make it seem like a special event. Couples are among the least price-sensitive consumers (who wants to look cheap on a date?) and have more things on their minds than maths. The price is given per person, but many will forget to double it.
The practice of offering items in two sizes, this has the allure of discounts and usually increases orders. The smaller portions make you feel you've saved money – and calories.
The eyes are drawn to boxes, and diners are statistically more likely to order whatever is inside them. Restaurants reserve them for profitable items or dishes the chef wants to promote.
When prices are printed in neat, right-justified columns, everyone glances down the line to compare prices. Menu consultants recommend a centred justification that leaves the prices scattered. This gently encourages the diner to order what she wants, not pick the cheapest price. Another way of minimising attention to cost? Omit the pound signs.
People are more likely to order something with a description (as used under "Coupes") than without it. Though overused, "caramelised" has mesmeric power. Menu consultants often recommend unfamiliar terms: not sure what a "passion fruit tuile" is? Why not order it to find out...
"This analysis is fascinating, but we have a different view. We never regard customers as a source of income but as people we want to have a good time, whatever their budget. We are happy to offer the opportunity to spend, but it's not mandatory." Jeremy King, The Wolseley
William Poundstone is the author of Priceless: The Myth of Fair Value (and How to Take Advantage of It)[Hill &Wang]
This story was originally published in March 2010.
This article was originally published by WIRED UK
